Appliances

Appliances are tested by operating the controls as a user would normally operate them on a daily basis.

I do not plug in appliances to test them, do not light gas pilot lights, and do not operate electric circuit breakers and water shutoff valves. Click here for helpful information about why those actions are not done at any time whatsoever during the course of the property inspection. I also do not unplug equipment to test outlets, nor do I dismantle equipment.

Thermostats, timers, and clocks are not calibrated, and self-cleaning functions are not tested. Convection fans are simply turned on but the actual convection function in cooking anything is not determined.
The disposal is turned on, but the actual working function of the disposal blades is not determined; nothing was inserted into the disposal.

Trash compactors are run through a cycle to determine whether or not it is operational but are not tested for ability to actually compact trash.

Built-in microwaves are checked by heating a cup of cold water for 30 seconds on the default power setting. Countertop microwaves are considered personal property and are not tested. Click here for further information about personal property. Consult with the seller concerning operation and maintenance of countertop microwaves that convey with the property.

The air gap at the sink (see Figure 1, next page) serves as a vent to help the dishwasher drain, However, it also serves as an overflow device if the main drain line gets clogged (see Figure 2, next page). The slots in the air gap should always be facing the sink basin since facing the slots away from the sink basin could cause water damage to the countertop, floors, or walls. I do not move the  dish-washer or remove any part of the dishwasher to look under or behind it. It is highly likely that if you move the dishwasher (such as during remodeling), there will be some moisture damage and/or mold growing under or behind it. Such conditions are quite common due to the inherent nature of dishwashers in that they use both hot and cold water supply lines and a drainage line, sometimes resulting in leaks or in the dishwasher sweating. If you have any concerns about mold, you should consult with a licensed hygienist now before close of escrow.

The dish washer drain line should have whats known as a "high loop". A "high loop" is where the dishwasher drain line is looped up and securely fastened to the underside of the counter above where the drain line attaches to the sink drain. This prevents the contaminated waste water (grey water) from being siphoned back into the dish washer.

If you have any questions, please contact me.

  

Figure 1 . Dishwasher air gap at kitchen sink.

Figure 2. Dishwasher draining improperly through air gap.

 

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